TACO BELLHuntington, Sep/13/2000
It was nice day for surfing. I went
to Huntington Beach with my friends. In that
day, there were steepy waves. So it was difficult
for me to ride. But they had power and sometimes
they were top-to-bottom. I plowed through
the waves five times. It was enough fun.
Taco Bell is my favoriete point in Huntington
Beach. But I don't like Taco Bell meal. As
everybody knows,Taco Bell is Mexican fast
food restaurant. So I don't like Mexican
food. First of all, there are waves that
are usually running high in this place. Every
weekend I go to Taco Bell with Chris and
my friends. Chris is my surfing teacher.
He teaches me how to evaruate ereas to surf
, how to describe weather and wave conditions, giving
and taking directions to surfing destinations,
and surf related slang and ideoms. So he
is very kindness and a good surfer. And he
takes great care of his friends. I respect
Chris.I want to be like such man.
ＴＡＣＯ ＢＥＬＬはメキシカンのファーストフードで、タコベル前ってのがハンティントンでは中々のサーフポイント。暇な時があれば、ここで入るようにしてる。この日はカプリスがおかしくなったからツレのアストロで６人乗って行った。やっぱりでっかい車はいいよな、板、中に入れれるし。ハンティントンだけに人はやっぱり多いけど、この日もそれなりによかった。まだまだすっげー楽しいなんて言えるほどにはなってないけどね。俺らにはクリス（３０）ってゆーサーフクルーがいて、その人が色々ノウハウを教えてくれる。こいつはかなりいかした男。まぁ、ヤツについてはまた後でくわしく書きます。サーフィンするとパーマが伸びていかんね。海入ると髪って回復するって知ってた？
